Bangkok

Bangkok isn't for the fainthearted, a sultry, engaging cacophony of sights, smells and tastes.

It starts to resemble a giant, out-of-control sauna full of temples, lady-boys, delicious street-food and gridlock during the humid summer months of July and August. And, in spite of a few precarious moments, the vibrant Thai capital has shaken off last year's coup and business is booming.

Whatever you do, don't be put off by the travails of Bangkok-there is probably no city on earth that offers such an incredible variety of inexpensive pleasures. Gratification is never more than a moment away, from sumptuous day-spas and exquisite dining to ubiquitous street food and soothing foot massages. The main word is "sanook" a Thai term that is instilled in every aspect of Thai culture that loosely translates as easygoing fun/pleasure.

And "sanook" is not for the locals alone. There is a wide selection of top-end accommodation that provides the cheapest luxury on earth if you're staying in the city. Two of the best business hotels in Asia are the Peninsula (00 66 2 861 2888; www.bangkokpeninsula.com) and the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (00 66 2 649 8888; www.luxurycollection.com/bangkok). The Oriental (00 66 2 659 9000; www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok) is a classic if you want more traditional charms, while the Metropolitan (00 66 2 625 3333; www.metropolitan.como.bz/bangkok) provides cool, modern architecture and a club for private members / residents. Apartments serviced, such as the elegantly urban Siri Sathorn (00 66 2 266 2345; www.sirii)

Head to the newly opened Siam Paragon (www.siamparagon.co.th), a shopping center of Babylonian proportions smack, right in the city center for those who want costly designer products. Hop across the road from Paragon to Siam Square, an atmospheric warren of miniature DIY boutiques and food stalls, to witness the imagination of Bangkok's young population. On Petchburi Road at Panthip Plaza, Bangkok's legendary computer and IT market, tech-head urges can be met around the corner.

In Bangkok, temple lovers are spoiled for options - there are literally hundreds. They change color with the sunrise, then head to Wat Po, which is not only home to a massive, golden reclining Buddha, but also the birthplace of Thai massage and masseurs still pursue their trade in a side pavilion. Start the day with the striking spires of the riverside Wat Arun.

If you want peace and quiet, head to Bang Ka Jao, a place where the Thai king has granted some semblance of security. Bang Ka Jao is a lush, green jungle area set across the Chao Phraya river from the centrally located Khlong Toey pier, which still retains a village-like feel. It's the perfect place to unwind from the city's unrelenting pace, particularly if you take a bike tour ( Www.bangkok.com/tours/index.html for cycling).

Spend time in Bangkok and soon you will know that the locals still seem to eat, who can blame them for the quality of the grub on offer?

Chinatown is a beautiful, hectic hive of Taoist temples, gold vendors, and constant food stall runs. The smells and victuals often defy description, but for any visiting gourmand, a wander around here is crucial-get here by riding the Chao Phraya river bus to Tha Ratchawong pier.

Cy'an, the production of Chef Amanda Gale at the Metropolitan (see above), offers some of the city's best international cuisine. Soi Suan Plu is home to a multitude of great nighttime street food stalls, a backstreet next to the hotel. Don't be afraid to point out exactly what you like, little English is spoken.

Check out the tiny Arab quarter just off Sukhumvit Road near the Nana Skytrain station for a real culinary surprise. Find the shisah pipes outside the Nasir al-Masri restaurant, run by the family ( Www.restaurant-shishah-nasir.com) and you can also discover delicious lamb shish, hummus and flat bread on Soi Nana Nua.

Bed Supper Club's iconic pod-like expanse ( For Bangkok nightlife novices, www.bedsupperclub.com) is still worth a visit. Try Royal College Avenue (known locally as RCA), a strip of bars and clubs to the east of the city centre, to really get down with the locals. Bangkok's cutting-edge nightclub, Club Astra (www.club-astra.com), is located here.

There is a fair explanation why the Palace of the Grand ( An important stop for any visitor to Bangkok is www.palaces.thai.net). It's a visual feast, quite simply, that leaves many first-timers gasping. It's also a living, breathing spiritual center, home to Wat Phra Kaeo, the Emerald Buddha's holiest temple.

Arrive in the fresh morning light at the palace and the textures and colors refracting from the various gold ornaments, tiled mosaics and pointed spires are breathtaking. Come back in the evening and a totally different range of colors and tones are formed by the gentle glow of the sunset.

Andrew Spooner co-authored the 2007 version of the Thailand Footprint Guidebook ( www.footprintbooks.com).